You can't really go wrong in the Dolomites. Cir peaks on one side, Schlern and Sella stock on the other. Add to that fantastic trails and a biking sommelier garnished with craft beer. That sounds almost too indulgent, but they are the ingredients of a unique bike trip to Val Gardena.
Text: Norman Bielig, Photos: David Karg
We have an appointment with our guide Andrea very early in the morning at the Grödner Joch. He has promised us a dreamlike sunrise and honestly we are also still slightly dreamy. But good. So we shoulder our bikes and climb a good 150 hm at the top of the pass behind the Frara hut. We are below a massive rock wall with an unobstructed view of the pass road, the Val Badia and the Cir peaks. We are particularly taken with the trail below. In numerous curves it winds its way back to the top of the pass and our anticipation rises. Andrea now directs our gaze back in the direction of Val Badia. Just behind the Fanes-Sennes massif, the sun now gradually rises and warms our faces. It had not promised too much. First this orange glow, then the bright light that breaks in the needles of the pines.
Off on the Cir Trail
But now it's time to cycle to our actual destination - the Cir Trail. Of course, not without a short stop at the Frara hut on the way to fill up on some caffeine. The typical Italian pass restaurant is the ideal place for a short break. After all, this is the best place to observe the hustle and bustle of the pass. Motorcyclists, car drivers, racing cyclists, hikers and mountain bikers quite mixed and all probably equally impressed by the panorama.
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We let ourselves be transported comfortably by lift to just below the Cir peaks. Another 100 m roll in and finally we find ourselves in the middle of the trail fun. What looked fun from a distance turns out to be just that. A wild twisty ride with numerous waves, bumps and also some jumps. The trail does not run bluntly over a ski slope, but uses the surroundings. Again and again the trail disappears behind massive rocks or smaller elevations. In the middle part there are even some tables that provide a lot of airtime. Our first ride on the Cir-Trail is still reserved. Finally our eyes can't really let go of the panorama. We surely need 2-3 rides to really focus on the trail - and even then we have to stop every now and then to satisfy our amazement.
Wine & Bike
For the second espresso break of the day, Andrea tells us a little about his exciting job mix of bike guide and sommelier. In winter, he works directly in the restaurant business, and in summer he offers wine tasting tours. American guests in particular take advantage of this offer, he says. Basically, it is also obvious to mix these two forms of enjoyment with each other. Finally the topic enjoyment comes more and more back into the Mountainbiken - where it concerned some years ago still sweat and agonies, Mountainbiker want today experiences, Trails and evenly also local benefit. What could be better in Italy than wine?
But besides the physical pleasures, we do not want to forget the bikers. The Cir trail is one of two trails that await us bikers below the Cir peaks. In the direction of Selva Gardena, an additional flow trail runs under the Dantercepies cable car. Both trails show the craftsmanship of their builders. Following the line of the mountain, these trails were laid in the subsoil. At the end of our trail day it is also craftsmanship. Andrea takes us to S. Cristina, where the Eguja beer has been brewed since 2016. They wanted to stay true to Ladin tradition and culture, and so the beer is named after the golden eagle - this powerful animal that stands for freedom and hovers high above the Val Gardena valley.
The Sellaronda, a classic
The next day of our bike trip, a true MTB classic is on the agenda for us: the Sellaronda. We start our tour at the Dantercepies cable car in Selva Gardena. Arriving at the mountain station, we first put on a jacket. At an altitude of just under 2,300 meters above sea level, it's still really cold this early in the morning - even if the sun is already shining from a bright blue sky. The first descent over the Grödnerjoch towards Corvara leads over a fluid freeride route, on which only a few difficult sections interrupt the flow. In Corvara we immediately get back on the gondola, and after a short descent we take another chairlift to a wonderful plateau that offers fantastic views of the most beautiful peaks of the Dolomites between the Fanes-Senes Nature Park and the Sella mountain range. In the meantime, we have stowed our jackets back in our backpacks, as the temperatures have already risen well into the double digits again. The wonderful Jägersteig is now on the program. The natural path leaves us directly at Passo Campolongo, where after crossing the road the next chairlift is already waiting for us.
Once again we effortlessly reach the top station to immediately plunge back into the pleasure. Different variants are available on the way to Arabba. We try the most difficult one and manage quite well. From the Porta Vescovo cable car we go up to the roof of the tour. We have already been warned, but we are still surprised when we suddenly find ourselves directly opposite the Marmolada. The highest Dolomite peak with its mighty glacier is a real eye-catcher and is probably photographed hundreds of times a day. However, we immediately set off in the direction of Pordoijoch. The first part of the following descent is an extremely steep, rough gravel road that almost makes our brakes glow. As a reward, another highlight of the Sellaronda follows with trail no. 680, which runs gently up and down the slope. Now it's time for a short break, which we take at the Rifugio Fodom to enjoy apple strudel and espresso in the bright sunshine, before we conquer the Passo Pordoi, of course with lift support.
The descent to Canazei can again be done on several trails. Once in the Fassa Valley, the leisurely bike path is a welcome change. Via this we reach the last ascent of the day in Campitello di Fassa along the river. At the top of the Col Rodella lift, another breathtaking panorama presents itself. Langkofel, Plattkofel, Grohmannspitze, Zahnkofel - these impressive rock giants seem almost threatening, but also radiate a lot of energy. This power comes in handy, because the biggest challenge awaits us at the end, with the downhill on the "Ciampinoi Freeride Trail".
That's it for this time. But we will certainly return to Val Gardena. The multitude of lifts, the varied trails and above all the unique mountain world of the Dolomites exert an attraction that we simply can't resist.
Region
Val Gardena is located in the South Tyrolean Dolomites and is surrounded by numerous mountains and alpine pastures. The picturesque surroundings appeal to every outdoor enthusiast. The region is made for every kind of mountain sports. Numerous beautiful tours attract mountain bikers to the region year after year. Val Gardena is about 400 km / 5. hrs from Zurich, 275 km / 3.5 hrs from Munich and 120 km / 2 hrs from Innsbruck.
Bike hotels of the region
Bikehotel Linder
Via Nives 36, 39048 Selva (BZ) South Tyrol - Italy
Tel. +39 0471 795242
[email protected]
www.dolomites-mtb.com/de/
Hotel Oswald
Meisules Str. 140
39048 Selva
South Tyrol - Italy
Tel. +39 0471 795151
[email protected]
www.hoteloswald.com/
Hotel Digon
Via Digon 22, 39046 Ortisei
South Tyrol - Italy
Tel. +39 0471 797266
[email protected]
www.hoteldigon.com
More biker regions & hotels at Mountain Bike Holidays at www.bike-holidays.com
Addresses
Dolomites Val Gardena
South Tyrol / Italy
Tel.: +39 0471 777777
E-mail: [email protected]
www.valgardena.it
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