Kaiserwinkl: imperial cross-country skiing pleasure

by Lisa Riedlsperger

Why? Why did I let myself get involved? One glass too many and the words just seem to gush out of my mouth. No wonder my sports-obsessed husband jumps at it when I loudly trumpet my New Year's resolution on New Year's Eve: Live healthier and finally start exercising! Of course, he has to get right down to business and book a spontaneous short trip to Tyrol. No problem, if it wasn't a cross-country skiing vacation of all things," I think morosely as I haphazardly throw things into my travel bag.

The region Kaiserwinkl
Our spontaneous trip takes us to the Austrian state of Tyrol. In the uppermost tip of Tyrol near the German border between the Chiemgau Alps in the north and the Kaiser Mountains in the south, the four communities of Kössen, Walchsee, Schwendt and Rettenschöss joined forces a few years ago to form the Kaiserwinkl vacation region. The sight of the numerous lakes, valleys and mountains is truly idyllic and inspires every alpine friend. The mountain massifs of the Wilder Kaiser and the Zahme Kaiser tower above the rural region. The region is tranquil, idyllic and familiar and offers a wide range of sports and outdoor opportunities. Holidaymakers can choose from around 30 hotels and inns, ranging from simple guesthouses to noble four-star superior class hotels, with prices ranging from 25-160 euros per person.

Imperial cross country skiing network
To pass the time in the car a little, I unpack the winter brochure and cross-country ski trail map of Kaiserwinkl. The number of yellow and pink postits sticking out of the brochures with even more notes, hints and tips makes my eyes and worry lines grow big. Frowning, I cast a sideways glance: "I guess your imagination ran away with you a bit? You do realize that we're only going to the Kaiserwinkl for a few days of cross-country skiing, and that that's far more kilometers of trails than we have time for, let alone strength for?" No answer is also an answer - because the quietly muttered "Let's see" I just had to overhear. With my lips pressed together, I turn my attention back to the travel documents. The cross-country skiing destination Kaiserwinkl between jagged mountain giants of the Zahmen and the Wilder Kaiser and the enchanting Walchsee has fully committed itself to winter sports away from the ski slopes. The region is characterized by an abundance of cross-country ski trails that are perfectly groomed every day and can be skied free of charge, as well as fantastic tours. Thus, the cross-country skiing area was awarded by the world's largest test portal of ski resorts as a top cross-country skiing area and rated with five out of five stars best. No wonder that the region is at the top of the popularity scale in Europe among cross-country skiers and skaters. Whether amateur or professional, cross-country or biathlon enthusiasts, the Kaiserwinkl has something to offer everyone. In total, the four resorts have 252 kilometers of cross-country ski trails in all levels of difficulty, including 127 km for skating and 125 km for classic cross-country skiing. A look at the ski area with 37 km of slopes makes the cross-country skiing strength of the region clear. Also a comparison with Swiss regions such as Lenzerheide (56 km of loi-pen) or Davos (146 km of trails, of which 46 km are skating, 100 km classic) shows that Kaiserwinkl offers a strong network of trails for cross-country skiers even in international comparison. An additional plus point are the two snow-sure cross-country ski trails in Kössen and Walchsee, which thanks to snow-making are completely independent of the possible vagaries of winter weather. With more than two kilometers each, they ensure safe cross-country skiing pleasure in any case. Those who still need a little support can get tips from the cross-country skiing instructors at the Nordic Center and train together with them the correct sequence of movements.

Two days later...
I'm starting to think that my husband is really planning to test all the trails in the region on our few days of vacation. Yesterday, shortly after breakfast, we set off for a first round of getting to know the unique, medium-difficulty "Lehrreiche-Schwaigsloipe". On 9 kilometers through one of the largest contiguous moorland areas in Tyrol, we learn interesting facts about the natural jewel "Schwemm", the formation of the moorland and the biodiversity that is hidden under the snow on information boards along the route. Cross-country skiing in a different way. Later, after a delicious lunch snack, we finished the day with a snowshoe hike to the Kohlalm. Today we want to strap on the narrow skis again. And I must honestly admit, I like it. The Kaiserwinkl and the genuine Tyrolean hospitality, which one experiences here at each corner, infected me probably, with the winter sports virus and I hope my husband also planned this day as great as the one before. First we head for the Oberberg cross-country skiing center on the western outskirts of Walchsee. This is where the 8-kilometer-long lakeside cross-country ski trail starts, with a total of only an easy 100 meters of elevation gain, allowing you to enjoy the scenery in complete tranquility. As the name suggests, the trail leads along the Walchsee lake. The route passes the southern shore and crosses the marshy meadows on the eastern shore and the Essbaum Inn, which invites you to take a leisurely break. We settle down on the sunny terrace, which I also declare one of the most beautiful places I've ever been, and let ourselves be spoiled with Kasspatzln, Tyrolean Gröstl and casual Kaiserschmarrn. We enjoy the delicious food and the great view of the lake, while we go through the possible tours for the last days of vacation.

My husband goes into raptures: "Up to the village cross-country ski trail Schwendt, the highest cross-country ski trail in the Kaiserwinkl with a fantastic view of the Kaiser Mountains or the medium-difficulty Hochau cross-country ski trail through the beautiful forest terrain or rather the 23-kilometer Kaiserwinkl cross-country ski trail? Then we absolutely have to test the illuminated night cross-country ski run in Kössen in the evening and have you read about the biathlon training at the Moarloipe?" Now it's up to me to stop him. That would be a bit too much of a good thing, but clearly reason enough to come back and experience more in the Kaiserwinkl cross-country skiing region, where there are so many more opportunities to experience a perfect day in the snow away from the ski slopes with biathlon, snowshoeing and ice sports.

But now, for the time being, it's time to make our way back. Our body movements are completely in time, the muscles in our legs tense to the rhythm of the push-offs, every double-pole push powers us forward on the trail. Strength, agility and coordination are brought up to speed, sweat is the price of pleasure. Almost silently we glide through this silent paradise and feel how we clear our heads, leave everyday life behind us and recharge our batteries. Via the loop on the eastern shore we come back to the starting point. Cross-country skiing is fun! Exhausted from this training session and the cold winter air, my thoughts already wander to the various recreational facilities in the region. If you're looking for a change of pace when it's stormy and snowing outside, or for relaxation after sports, there are numerous indoor swimming pools and saunas with a wide variety of relaxation options in Kaiserwinkl and the surrounding area. First a warm-up round in the steam bath, followed by a fizzing sauna infusion and finally a soothing massage to be fit again for the next day. I'm sure this hasn't been our last cross-country vacation in the Kaiserwinkl, because by now I'm really enjoying it: simply having an imperial vacation at fair prices.

If you would like to read and see all the articles in this issue, order the Sportguide Winter 5/2016 issue using the form below or send us an email at [email protected].

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