The 3 Peaks Dobbiaco Trail: Along the Front

Dobbiaco has always been a connecting place. The basis for the development of Dobbiaco was the trade route Strada d'Alemagna, which connected Venice and Augsburg via the Puster and Höhlenstein valleys. During the First World War the front was on the mountains around Dobbiaco and even today Dobbiaco is a connecting point between East and South Tyrol - whether you take the road for it or, like us, old military paths. We start via the Höhlensteintal valley and soon turn off to the Silvesteralm. Here begins the old military road that supplied the front-line soldiers during the First World War. It should not remain the only rudiment of this bloody time on our way. So we climb up turn by turn - always keeping an eye on the ridge. On the walls of some hairpin bends we see a blue sprayed Stoneman symbol and also next to the paths there are surprisingly many "Stoamandl" (Stoneman symbol, Stoneman= alpine MTB race). If one knows however that exactly here Roland Stauders original Stoneman runs, the Ver-wunderung is no longer so large. So we pass at the foot of the Strickberg a stamp of the Stoneman Dolomiti round.

With the last of our strength we manage the climb to Strickberg still pedaling. Here we have to catch our breath and let our eyes wander. On one side the Markinkele with just over 2,500 m one of the highest peaks of the Vilgratner mountains exactly on the border between East and South Tyrol. On the other side the Dolomites and impressively illuminated by the morning light two of the 3 Peaks. At the Markinkele we still see the remains of old bunkers from the First World War - meanwhile they are decorated with a cheering slogan for the Stoneman. This shows quite well how historical infrastructures are subject to constant change. Today, it's all about adventurous mountain biking routes instead of bloody, embattled peaks.

The two 3 peaks always in view
Now it's time to start the descent. From Strickberg we have three options to get back to the Silvesteralm. All exciting, trail-rich and quite demanding. A good 700 m of altitude have to be covered and the high alpine trail structure requires a clean driving technique. We start with a broad grin on our faces - after all, we can already see large parts of the trail ahead of us. It runs along a slightly curved ridge. Meadow and gravel passages alternate and as soon as we lift our head, we have the Dolomites directly in view. At the same time it is not so easy to concentrate on the path. Again and again we have to stop to enjoy the panorama, so that we can then focus on the path again. But this one also demands our focus and deserves it. The changes in terrain and gradient are varied. From the halfway point, the first trees reappear. First light pines, later the forest becomes denser and denser and finally swallows the path and us. Shortly before the Silvesteralm we reach the forest path and can cross in a relaxed way, catch our breath and feel the anticipation of a good Italian espresso. We enjoy this on the afternoon sunny terrace with a view of a small but beautiful biotope above the hut.

From here we return to Dobbiaco - of course not without having made a detour to Dobbiaco Lake. This is idyllically located in the Höhlensteintal valley and really hardy bikers can refresh themselves here after the trail tour. But be careful - this mountain lake is fed by the Rienz and has no common Central European bathing temperature. After this detour, we still sit at the apero on the terrace with a view of the Neunerkofel and Birkenkofel. We look at the map and have a grin on our lips in view of the possibilities we still have here between Stoneman and Plätzwiesen, between East and South Tyrol, between 3 Zinnen and Markinkele.