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Chiemgau: Where cross-country skiing is at home

The Chiemgau region includes the area around Lake Chiemsee in southeastern Bavaria. In the very rural-agricultural region developed in recent decades a gentle winter tourism, whose main attraction is the natural landscape. No hotel castles, no noisy après-ski bars. Especially Nordic skiing such as cross-country skiing and biathlon have a long tradition here. This region is to be discovered - on narrow skis, with or without a gun.

by Marlene Seitz

In the run-up to our trip, I find out about the possibilities that the Chiemgau offers us. The bare figures sound very promising: 407 kilometers of classically groomed trails and 368 kilometers for the skating style are available. The cross-country ski trails mainly romp south of Traunstein towards the Chiemgau Alps. The main winter sports resorts are Inzell, Ruhpolding and Reit im Winkl, and anyone who knows a little about the winter sports scene will sit up and take notice at the latest when they hear these names. Inzell is known as an ice skating stronghold and Ruhpolding has been making a name for itself for over thirty years with the annual Biathlon World Cup and several championships. In the 60's, Bavaria's first cross-country ski trail was groomed in the Chiemgau. Since then, a long time has passed to gain experience and know-how to prepare the tracks. Not quite as long, but still with absolute perfection, Bernhard Meyer draws fine tracks in the snow every winter. He is responsible for the cross-country trails on Hochberg, Traunstein's local mountain. During my preliminary exploration, I come across an interview with the Spurer. The trained electrician reveals his secret as to why he is able to prepare the trails so perfectly: only those who are enthusiastic cross-country skiers themselves can empathize with what the athletes need. In addition, there are years of experience. He also likes to take suggestions from runners again and again to perfect his work.

From the hotel lobby to the track
On the region's website, all cross-country trails are explained in detail and can be filtered according to certain criteria such as "refreshment stops", "family-friendly", "floodlight", "scenic" and still others. While surfing, I quickly notice that Chiemgau takes cross-country skiing seriously and doesn't just run it as a niche offering. I can hardly wait to poke my cross-country ski poles into the snow myself. Two weeks later, the time has come and I am standing on the Grashofloipe in Ruhpolding together with my partner. This was recommended to us by receptionist Carola to warm up. On the circular course across the golf course we hardly have to deal with any elevation gain - perfect for the beginning. After all, it's been a few years since we last stood on cross-country skis. What's more, the trail starts right in front of the Ortnerhof, where we've put up for the week. The hotel belongs to the grouping "Cross Country Ski Holidays" and therefore promises to be particularly suitable for cross-country skiers. Our first impression can also confirm this. The skis are safely stored in the ski room, where there is also a waxing rack with the usual waxing accessories. At the info point we find not only comprehensive maps of the trails in the region, but also some brochures of cross-country ski schools. Our conversation with Carola quickly made it clear to us that she is very knowledgeable about the area and, above all, an avid cross-country skier herself. Her tips come from first-hand experience and we can rely one hundred percent on her statements. That's what distinguishes a real cross-country skiing hotel from a standard winter sports hotel. Back on the track: the 8.8-kilometer circuit takes us first across open fields and then into Ruhpolding to the cross-country skiing center. After one and a half laps, we dare to change to a medium-difficulty trail that also starts at the cross-country center. The clear signposts tell us that this is the Wasen Loipe. And promptly we start to sweat. Right at the beginning, the trail climbs and brings us to a high plateau above Ruhpolding. From here we have a fantastic view over the entire community. Since it has already become late afternoon, the lights slowly go on everywhere in the village and a cozy atmosphere spreads. Simply marvelous! We do one more lap on the red trail, then we turn into the connecting section that brings us back to the hotel. The cozy atmosphere has infected us, now the wellness area calls. A soothing massage loosens our legs and prevents the inevitable muscle soreness a little. After all, we still have a lot to do this week.

Experience the fascination of biathlon at first hand
The very next day, a highlight of our stay awaits us. Twice a week, the Chiemgau Biathlon Arena hosts a free guided tour followed by shooting on the original competition targets. We can't miss that under any circumstances. True to style, we make our way to the stadium on cross-country skis. In the opposite direction to yesterday, the Laubauer trail takes us directly there. We are fascinated by the guided tour and the glimpses behind the scenes of the annual World Cup spectacle. Of course, the shooting impresses us the most. Now we first become aware of the masterful performance of the athletes at the shooting range. At least we arrive at the shooting range fairly rested and relaxed. But after a few rounds in the stadium and with a racing pulse, it's a miracle that they are able to shoot at all. During the guided tour we also learn that the progress of technology has also simplified this sport. When a biathlon event was held here for the first time in 1970, the athletes shot at balloons from a distance of 150 meters with large-caliber rifles. "Almost no one hit it then!" laughs our stadium guide.

There is humanity in cross-country skiing
It is fascinating to note with how much enthusiasm people in Chiemgau devote themselves to the Nordic winter resort. No matter with whom we have spoken so far, the affection for the sport is noticeable. So it is not surprising that the region has already produced some sports greats. Tobias Angerer comes from Traunstein and Andreas Birnbacher from Prien am Chiemsee, both found the best training conditions in their homeland. Fritz Fischer was active here both as an active athlete and as a coach and Simon Schempp, currently the most successful German biathlete, also trains regularly on the Chiemgau trails and in the biathlon stadium. But in Chiemgau, it's not always about hundredths of a second and top sporting performance. On January 29, 2017, the Chiemgau Trophy will enter its third round. In the team competition, there is no timing, but "tasty treat stations" and the most creative or largest team wins. Nevertheless, one should bring along a certain sportiness. The route runs from Inzell via Ruhpolding to Reit im Winkl, and cross-country skiers can follow the route on their own at any time. You should plan on about five hours. Small consolation: there are numerous places to stop for refreshments along the route. Our goal for the last day of our vacation is therefore set: to ski the Chiemgau Trophy circuit. Until then we still have to train a little, but in view of the optimal conditions we are more than confident. Already the first two days convinced us that the Chiemgau is a cross-country paradise without equal. And it's not just the generous network of cross-country ski trails, but above all the attitude of the people here that makes the sport on narrow boards soar. Whether it's top-class sport or a leisurely cross-country skiing vacation - in the Chiemgau region, everyone will find their perfect spot.

CHIEMGAU

Arrival
By car from Zurich-Munich-Chiemgau, 420 km. From Munich 108 km, 46 km west of Salzburg.

Region
An idyllic alpine vacation region in Bavaria with magnificent mountains, valleys and lakes, familiar and quiet, with a very strong cross-country skiing offer

Cross-country skiing network
407 km of classic cross-country ski trails,
368 km of skating trails,
Total 775 km cross country ski trails

Cross-country skiing hotel
Ortnerhof The feel good hotel
Place 6, D-83324 Ruhpolding
Tel: +49 (0)8663 / 8823-0
E-mail: [email protected]
Internet: www.ortnerhof.de

For more regions and hotels, visit CROSS COUNTRY SKI HOLIDAYS at www.langlauf-urlaub.com.

Address
Chiemgau Tourism e.V.
Haslacher Str. 30
DE 83278 Traunstein
Phone +49 (0)861 - 90 95 90-0
[email protected]
www.chiemgau-tourismus.de

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