Paznaun: Cross-country skiers flying high

The alpine winter party town of Ischgl is famous for its fun. The Silvretta ski area, which Ischgl shares with Samnaun, will also be familiar to many. As a cross-country skiing destination, however, the region will be less well known, wrongly so in our opinion, as the following report shows.

by Lisa Riedlsperger

Wnyone who literally leaves the tourist stronghold of Ischgl on the left and drives the Silvretta road further into the Paznaun Valley reaches the tranquil town of Galtür. The village is particularly popular with families and tourism leaves only isolated traces in the mountain landscape. The natural beauty of the Silvretta Group could thus be preserved. This pleases pleasure sports enthusiasts and nature lovers alike.

The offer off the ski slopes is accordingly large - cross-country skiers and ski tourers will find ample opportunities to indulge in their hobby. Above all, the altitude ensures unique conditions. And not only because of the snow guarantee. At an altitude of 1,377 - 2,040 meters above sea level, the air is already thin and the lung function is properly challenged here. But the effort is not the only thing that takes cross-country skiers' breath away. On the cross-country trail to and on the Silvretta reservoir, you come very close to the peaks - a rare experience for the athletes on narrow boards, who usually have to be content with tours in the valley. But even this has its charm in Galtür - probably also because the village already lies at an altitude of over 1,500 meters above sea level. The cross-country ski trail network winds along the Trisanna mountain river between Galtür and Ischgl. When the legs get heavy, the ski buses that regularly pass by here are a welcome means of transport back to the hotel. That's how easy it works in Paznaun.

Convinced!
We pack our cross-country skiing equipment and set off in the direction of Paznaun, where we check into the Cross Country Ski Holi-days Hotel Post. Franz Türtscher, the manager of the hotel, greets us in a friendly manner at the reception and immediately provides us with the best tips on the region's extensive network of cross-country ski trails. In the track we go however only tomorrow, because the today's afternoon is completely dedicated to the relaxation. Stubensauna, herbal sauna and aroma steam bath - there we find with security the perfect heat oasis for each requirement. Afterwards, we'll indulge in the evening's 5-course gourmet menu, because after all, we'll need full energy stores for our cross-country skiing venture tomorrow.

To get started, host Franz recommends the easy Tschaffein trail. With a length of 3.3 kilometers and only 50 meters of altitude, it is the perfect warm-up program. Halfway along the route, we spontaneously decide to add the medium-difficulty forest trail. We are full of energy, the weather could not be better and the training in the clear cold winter air is really fun. When we finally arrive back at the starting point and the legs are still not tired, the Wirl trail is also taken under the narrow boards. It is an incredibly beautiful feeling to glide through the snowy winter landscape, even if the first signs of fatigue are already noticeable. The way back to Galtür, on which it goes primarily downhill, we still manage, then we first take a break to warm up with a steaming hot mulled wine. That was more than enough for the first day. And tomorrow we finally want to go up to the Silvretta reservoir.

So close to the peaks
It's 11 kilometers and almost 500 meters in altitude to the Bielerhöhe. Fortunately, yesterday's training session has not left any after-effects, which is certainly also due to the extensive wellness program that we enjoy every day at the Hotel Post. First we warm up in the Wirl Loipe loosely, in order to reach the entrance of the cross-country skiing route Silvretta - Bielerhöhe. From now on we have to divide our energy properly. With every breath we blow small white clouds into the blue sky. Despite the low temperatures we start to sweat. Nevertheless, it is a pleasure for body and mind to glide through this dreamlike mountain world. The last steep ramp that leads us to the highest point of the route is still gallantly mastered, even though arms and legs are already aching. At the top we are rewarded with a breathtaking panorama. The Silvretta Group with its 74 three-thousand-meter peaks presents itself from its most beautiful side. Only the tracks of ski tourers move lonely through the glittering powder snow towards the peaks. The sight makes us want to try also this form of winter mountain sports. Maybe on a next visit to Paznaun? Together with an experienced mountain guide, this is certainly a very special adventure.

To loosen up our muscles a bit, we take a leisurely lap around the frozen Silvretta reservoir before we warm up again at the Berggasthof Piz Buin with Kaiserschmarrn and hot tea and prepare for the speedy descent to Galtür. However, we may stay a little longer in front of the cozy fireplace, spare ourselves this cool "pleasure" and let the so-called tunnel bus bring us back to the valley.

Tomorrow our short vacation is unfortunately already over again. Before departure, however, the next stay at the Hotel Post is already booked. In addition to the narrow boards, the touring skis will then be used to climb one of the prominent peaks of the Paznaun - Ischgl/Galtür region.