MTB Bregenzerwald: Lubricate calves!

by Lisa Riedlsperger

If only I had not listened to Johannes and rather taken the lift. "You can do it easily," said Johannes Larch, the operator of the bike school this morning, as he raved to me about his favorite tour, the Diedams-Neuhornbach Joch-Runde. He is right, it is only 1,300 meters in altitude from the "Mountain Bike Holidays" Hotel Adler in Au to the summit on the Diedamskopf. However, it is partly so steep that I have trouble keeping the front wheel on the ground, although I already rest with the sternum on the stem of my bike. This little thing has not mentioned the certified bike guide and driving technique trainer - perhaps because this climb for him, as a well-trained biker, is not a big problem. The magnificent landscape alone makes me forget the exertions and so I end up drenched in sweat, but still overjoyed at the highest point of the tour.

MTB region Bregenzerwald
I am in the Bregenzerwald, in the far west of Austria and would like to explore the region southeast of Bregenz, the capital of Vorarlberg, with my mountain bike in the coming days. 450 kilometers of designated tours in all levels of difficulty stretch through the varied landscape. Gentle hills, wide plains and romantic river valleys can be found there, as well as imposing peaks with long climbs. Some of the tours can be combined well with a gondola ride, unless you "voluntarily" give up this relief.

The Diedamskopf welcomes me with a magnificent panorama of the surrounding peaks from the Allgäu over the Arlberg to the Silvretta. With a piece of the regional mountain cheese and the delicious pastries, which I fortunately still have put in my backpack, I replenish my energy reserves. I still try to capture the fantastic view with some photos and then I make my way towards the valley. A beautiful trail winds over 300 m to the Diedamssattel and makes my biker heart beat faster. The increased heart rate I keep in the subsequent carrying passage forced and again run the beads of sweat over my forehead. Fortunately, it is only a short piece to the transition at Neuhornbach Joch. The following trail is even more beautiful than the first and ends directly at the Neuhornbachhaus, where I enjoy a refreshing drink on the sunny terrace, the wonderful view over the valley.

Around the Kanisfluh
After enjoying the 5-course gourmet menu from Tone's kitchen at the hotel, I discuss tomorrow's tour with Johannes, which we want to tackle together this time. Around the Kanisfluh is for advanced the classic in the Bregenzerwald. The largely isolated, legendary Kalkstock is considered the landmark of the region and impresses with a sensational view. To be on the safe side, I fill my plate to the brim with the delicacies offered at the rich breakfast buffet, so as not to experience any nasty surprises and to start the 43 km tour with a good 1,200 m of elevation in the best possible condition. From Au, we first have to take the road towards Damüls, but after just a few kilometers we branch off onto a forest road that is easy to follow and leads through a shady forest to Alpengasthof Edelweiß. Outside the forest, the unique alpine landscape opens up at the foot of the Kanisfluh. The imposing mountain is the habitat of about 70 head of rock deer, but is also home to almost 1,000 different species of butterflies. Here, the alpine farmers practice a three-stage farming system. Year after year, they first lead the animals from the valley to the so-called Vorsäß at an altitude of about 1,000 meters, before moving on to the high altitude alpine zone in summer. It is precisely this alpine zone over which we now roll with our studded tires and enjoy the most beautiful panoramas. In a constant up and down, the alpine path leads past a multitude of huts. We take a break at the particularly rustic Alpe Wurzach, which is completely covered with shingles and is known for its typical forest home cooking. The landlord spoils us with regional cheese delicacies and then takes us to his cellar, where a considerable number of the yellow loaves are stored. Alpine mountain cheese is produced in the alpine dairy of Alpe Wurzach. The cheese gets its special flavor and unique taste from the clear mountain air - at an altitude of 1,650 meters above sea level, between birdsong and cowbells, the tasty product can ripen particularly well. The varied ride across the idyllic Vorsäß with its huts and small streams finally leads us to the Mellenbach, which we follow out of the valley. We make another short stop at the impressive Mellentaler waterfall before we reach the back of the Kanisfluh in the village of Mellau and cycle back to Au along the cycle path.

My head full of impressions from my first two tours, I seek relaxation in the spacious wellness area at the Hotel Adler. Sauna with light therapy, a sanarium with exotic scents, and a steam bath with brine mist and starry sky are available and I just can't decide. I have already sweated enough, so I choose the sanarium. At a slightly lower temperature and humidity, body and mind relax equally and my thoughts already wander again to the possible tours for tomorrow. Johannes Larch has mentioned a difficult tour around the Mittagsfluh, which fits exactly into my plan and should be manageable after this wonderful regeneration. However, due to the impressive key data with 49 km and 1,753 hm, I will again make an extra round through the fantastic salad buffet this evening.

"You can be proud of that, not many people can do that!"

Today I am accompanied by Karl-Heinz, the second guide of the in-house bike school. Just like his colleague, he also appears well-trained and extremely competent. He promises me right at the beginning that we will "go one better" today. With the question: "Do you have your calves well lubricated?", we already start and begin the round with a 5 km long climb to the Stoggersattel. Quite casually and comfortably we climb up the pleasant slope until we stop after about 500 meters of altitude in a hairpin bend. "Now it's going to be tough" says Karl-Heinz and points to the path that leads up along the stream and looms menacingly like a wall in front of us. Doubting is useless and so I try to follow my companion, who playfully works his way up the ramp meter by meter. I feel my heart rate getting faster and faster, my leg muscles aching, but I am totally focused and reach the saddle with all my might. "You can be proud of that! Not many people can do that" - this sentence brings a big smile to my face and makes my chest swell. The pain in my thighs is also forgotten again and in the best of moods I start into the first really cool downhill towards Schönenbach. For a stop it is actually still much too early, but at the hunting inn Egender you just have to linger briefly. In the midst of this dreamlike foresight a "jewel of wood" was built, which fits wonderfully into the surrounding landscape and leaves an absolutely peaceful impression. With a cup of coffee we let our souls dangle, take in the tranquility and recharge our batteries for the challenges ahead - and I don't just mean the physical ones. I learn from my guide that the famous Bregenzerwälder Käsknöpfle (cheese dumplings) taste particularly good here, and I decide to stop here at lunchtime next time. Somewhat melancholy, we set off again. A short ascent is followed by another descent towards Iferwies Alpe. The view into the deep gorge of the Subersach is simply magnificent. The second long ascent of the day is now on the program and ends with a short pushing passage at the Schreibersattel. Again we have reached a fantastic vantage point and passed a multitude of huts. Never before have I been in a region with such a density of open alpine huts. Especially for hikers this must be a true paradise. After a leisurely descent over magnificent alpine pastures, we reach Sonderdach, where we take our lunch break in the mountain inn at the mid-station of the Bezau cable car. Toni Innauer, the Olympic ski jumping champion, grew up here and can be seen in countless pictures. He has certainly already sat here and tasted the delicious Käsknöpfle, which should give me and my companion strength for the 500 meters of altitude, which are still ahead of us this afternoon distributed over three climbs. First, however, we ride a brilliant trail that leads fluidly through the forest to the valley station of the mountain railroad and leads into the most scenic part of the tour. Along the Rimsbach, past Rimsgrundvor-säß and Marktobelvorsäß we gain altitude again before we meet the road on the outskirts of Bizau. Finally, we follow the Bregenzer Ache from Schnepfau to the starting point of our tour.

Karl-Heinz has not promised too much - the varied tour impresses with scenic highlights, great trails and the typical Bregenzerwald flair. The Bregenzerwald region has fully convinced me. I'll definitely be back, but then with the whole family.