Shauna Coxsey makes the first female ascent of "The Olympiad"

Shauna Coxsey has climbed the route "The Olympiad" at Skrinkle Haven (Pembrokeshire, Wales), becoming the first woman to complete this 12-meter-high deep-water solo line above the Celtic Sea. The Sheffield-based climber sent the route—which overhangs at 45 degrees—on just her second attempt, marking the fastest ascent of the line to date. First ascended by Neil Gresham (GBR) in 2012, "The Olympiad" has now seen six successful ascents and is rated 8b/5.13d. Here are the key details:

"The Olympiad" is a 12-meter-high deep-water soloing route at Skrinkle Haven in Pembrokeshire, Wales (UK). The line follows a wall overhanging at 45 degrees above the Celtic Sea; climbers must master difficult sequences of moves with open water beneath them. Coxsey is the first woman to complete the route.

With a difficulty rating of 8b/5.13d, "The Olympiad" is considered the hardest deep-water solo route in Great Britain. Neil Gresham (GBR) established the route in 2012; Coxsey’s ascent marks the sixth successful repeat. Steve McClure (GBR), Edmund Morris (GBR), Josh Ibbertson (GBR), and Cailean Harker (GBR) had previously completed the route.

Coxsey succeeded on her second attempt, marking the fastest ascent of the route to date. Josh Ibbertson (GBR) previously held the record for the fastest ascent, having required three sessions in "ground-up" style (climbing from the ground without prior rehearsal of the moves). Coxsey had checked out the route on a rope before her successful ascent.

For Coxsey, this route was her first serious deep-water soloing project. Although she had already climbed a few easier routes above Lake Garda (Italy) in 2017—following her participation in the Arco RockMaster—"The Olympiad" marked a significant step in this discipline. She had to adapt to a longer, exposed line featuring difficult moves and demanding conditions.

“‘The Olympiad’ is one of the most fascinating climbing routes I’ve ever seen,” says Coxsey. “I was desperate to climb it the moment I first saw it, but I knew it would be a tough battle. The moves are demanding, the route is much longer than I’m used to, and the logistical effort is enormous.”

The external conditions posed a major challenge. Coxsey had to factor in the tides, temperature, wind, and humidity while simultaneously working out her sequence of moves for a route where a fall inevitably meant plunging into the sea. "Attempting the route over the water was a wild experience," she says. "Given the tides, temperatures, wind, and humidity, catching perfect conditions seemed almost impossible."

Coxsey hadn’t expected to complete the route so quickly. “I absolutely didn’t expect to be able to send the route from the start on just my second attempt—I still can hardly believe it,” she says. “It was an experience I’ll remember forever, and one of my best climbing moments so far.”

First ascentionist Neil Gresham highlighted Coxsey’s ability to move between different disciplines. "'Olympiad' was Shauna’s first DWS [Deep Water Soloing] route, yet it is the hardest in Great Britain; no other woman had attempted it before, and she mastered it quickly," says Gresham. "The pressure was high, as we only had good conditions for a single day, but she remained calm and handled the task with ease."

With this ascent, Coxsey continues her exploration of climbing beyond the competitive circuit. Since retiring from competitive climbing, she has focused primarily on outdoor bouldering and is also planning the first ascent of a big-wall route in Nigeria for 2025. Her next goal is to return to Giuliano Cameroni’s "Hazel Grace Sit" (8C/V15) at the Gotthard Pass in Switzerland.