The Tauern Cycle Path is one of the most popular cycling routes in Europe. No wonder, because the long-distance bike trail is known for its diverse enticements along the way: crystal-clear lakes, mighty natural spectacles and famous sights invite you to take alpine detours, explore and take a break.
by Henning Heilmann
The evening before we set off on our 270-kilometer tour from the Krimml Waterfalls to the Mozart city of Salzburg and back to Krimml via Bad Reichenhall, we were still joking with the innkeeper. While we sat inside in the cozy parlor with Kasnock'n and beef brisket to get ready for the next few days, the storm raged outside. A real thunderstorm, the kind you only see in summer and in the mountains. While the lightning flashed and the thunder echoed off the mountain walls, our host just said: "I'll see. Tomorrow you'll have the best weather. It will stay dry."
The way is the goal
And he was to be proven right. Even as we returned to our hotel "Krimmlerfälle", which is over a hundred years old, it had cleared up and the first stars twinkled in the darkness. When we swing ourselves onto the saddles the next morning, it is still fresh, but the mountain peaks bathed in morning sun announce a brilliantly beautiful summer day. The short distance from our quarters to the Krimml Waterfalls is quickly covered. Impressed by the sounds and smells of the picturesque landscape, we hear the roar from afar. The highest waterfalls in Central Europe plunge a total of 380 meters into the depths over three steps. They are the starting point of the now famous Tauern Cycle Path, which was awarded a 4-star quality bike route by the German Bicycle Club in 2012. The day is still young and there is plenty of time to snap our first souvenir photos.
Temptations along the way
After about thirty kilometers we take our first break: At the new Mittersill National Park Center, we take a few shady moments and get virtual information about the Hohe Tauern National Park, whose mountain world we would have liked to explore in more detail. But there are many other peaks, natural spectacles and sights along the Tauern Cycle Path that tempt us to make excursions as far as the Mozart city of Salzburg: the Großglockner, the wild and romantic Liechtensteinklamm gorge near St Johann im Pongau, the Eisriesenwelt giant ice caves and Hohenwerfen Castle, the Berchtesgaden National Park and Königssee lake.
Alpine side trip
After overcoming the Lueg Pass (553 m), we leave the region that locals call the "Innergebirg": Past the romantic Gollinger waterfall with camping and outdoor center, we head to the ancient Celtic and salt-mining town of Hallein. Between Kuchl and Hallein we meet two MTB routes from the Berchtesgadener Land. However, if you want to cycle over the Stahlhaus (1,500 m) and the Königsbachalm to the Königssee, you should take a day of time, plenty to drink and a well-tuned mountain bike. In return, he will experience a fantastic alpine addition with subsequent bathing pleasure.
Cycling vacation with city trip
Instead, we are drawn to the Mozart city of Salzburg. The Mirabell Gardens, the fortress, Mozart's birthplace - these are all sights we definitely didn't want to miss on the Tauern Cycle Path. And so we swap our cycling gear for casual leisure wear for a day, stroll through the city, drink coffee in time-honored coffee houses and enjoy ourselves. But then we are drawn back to the Tauern Cycle Path. With a last look back, we say goodbye. "On the road again," Heinz smiles and is pleased that his little belly of prosperity has almost disappeared in the last few days. Despite Tauern lamb, pocket dumplings and beer meat.
Tauern Cycle Route or on to Passau
The adventure does not have to end in Salzburg. Already during our preparations we decided to do the cross-border Tauern Cycle Route: so we return to Pinzgau in a loop via the "little German corner".
As an alternative, there is still the variant to Passau. Here you leave the city of Salzburg northward through the quiet Salzach and Inn floodplains. On their banks lie the old shipping market of Oberndorf, Gothic Braunau, 1000-year-old Obernberg, the Augustinian monastery of Reichersberg, the baroque town of Schärding, Wernstein Castle and - at the destination - the "Three Rivers City" of Passau. All in all, from Krimml to Passau 310 kilometers.
Loop over Berchtesgadener Land
However, we leave the city of Mozart in a southwesterly direction to the Salzburg Open Air Museum in Großgmain and cycle via the Bavarian town of Bad Reichenhall along the Saalach river upstream with slight inclines to Lofer. The newly constructed Tauern Cycle Path from St. Martin near Lofer leads to the natural attractions of the Saalach Valley, such as the Lamprechts Cave and the Seisenberg Gorge, and reaches the Tauern Cycle Path along the Salzach River again at Lake Zell. For the return trip of about 66 kilometers to Krimml, we treat ourselves to a ride on Pinzgauer Lokalbahn, a beautiful narrow-gauge railroad with over a hundred years of history.
In Krimml the round closes
Nostalgic as we are, we return to our weather-proof host on our last evening. He recognizes us and smiles: "Well, was I right about the weather?" We laugh and agree with him: even though it stayed dry, the water accompanied us in different forms. As bubbling streams, as wide rivers, as crystal-clear lakes, as cooling drinking water from fountains or as salty beads of sweat on our foreheads. Only the rain, we were actually spared. We are sure: it was not the last time that we came together in this round.
Link Tauern Cycle Path
Link Salzburgerland
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